2011 Dodge Challanger SRT
Brock Vigneau “Bvigne01”
Photos by LaMichael C. Pruitt & Pedro Murillo
Installation performed by Craig Bevil, Bevil Automotive
What you will need:
- Latex or nitrile gloves – to prevent fingerprints on parts
- Loctite 10 minute epoxy (AAC recommended)
- Black household, waterproof silicone (such as Silicone II sold at hardware stores)
- Good fitting leather gloves to protect your hands from the heat while splitting the housings
If you are doing fogs you will need either a Dremel with a diamond cutting wheel or a band saw (18TPI or higher)
No matter the make, you will set the oven to 225* to soften the glue.
Chargers are the easiest, Challengers are the hardest – beginning in 2009 Dodge changed the adhesive they used and it is much harder to split the housings. The newer adhesive is not really heat sensitive, what you are really doing is softening the plastic to pull it away from the lens.
Once you split the housings, spend a few minutes to get as much of the old adhesive out of the groove as possible – the better job you do now the better the lens will seal when you glue it all back together.
You can not flex or tweak the fit on CCFL halos – they must be glued down in a “relaxed” state. As the epoxy dries it will shrink and could break the light.
Use epoxy to seal the hole where the wires come through – silicone wont stick well and you will develop a leak within a few months.
- Online fuse holder (10A or less)
- Switch of your choice
- About 20 ft of wire – I like to use 16ga black speaker wire but any small gauge wire will work.
To make installation easier, most shops now use “ground side control”. The instructions here will be for that installation style. Ground side control will not allow for a lit switch!
Once the headlights and fog lights are installed you will need to connect all the black (-) wires together and all the red (+) wires together on each side.
Run a wire from the terminal on the underhood fuse box to the fuse holder (fuse as close to terminal as possible – leave the fuse out at this point) to the red (+) wires on the passenger side and across the front to the drivers side.
Run a second wire from the black (-) wires on the passenger side across the front to the drivers side and connect them. Take this same ground wire and run it up and along the hood release cable to under the windshield cowl.
You will need to make a small cut in the rubber wire cover where it goes through the firewall and push the wire through it into the passenger compartment.
Mount your switch where you like it and run the wire to one pin on the switch.
Run a new wire from the other pin on the switch to a easy to access ground screw.
Install the fuse and test that everything works. ◙
Advanced Automotive Concepts
Metairie, LA 70002
7729 Maplewood Ave
North Richland Hills, TX 76180